As the springtime weather shifts from messy to mild, every homeowner's attention turns to the out of doors. It's time to clean things up, tend to the garden, and make needed repairs to both the home and its surroundings. Where to start? Assuming that your exterior paint is failing, it's best to focus on that first, according to experts.
Debbie Zimmer, paint and color expert for the Paint Quality Institute says there are plenty of good reasons to start spring chores with exterior painting:
"First, spring is a very comfortable time to do outdoor painting. Second, it's smart to paint before putting down mulch, which along with your plants, will just get trampled if you paint later on. Third, why not get your painting done before more pleasant 'distractions' like gardening, sports, and barbecues begin?"
Zimmer says that if your house paint is near the end of its life expectancy, you're taking a chance by postponing repainting. It doesn't take long for exposed wood to begin to rot, and other types of exteriors also suffer when the paint wears off. Wait too long and you may have to make repairs before starting to paint.
Another reason to get to your painting first: Exterior latex paint forms the most durable, protective finish when the weather is mild. "It's always best to do exterior painting when the temperature is above 50 degrees F., but not too hot," says Zimmer. "Very hot days can cause the paint to dry too quickly and impair good paint film formation. By painting in moderate weather, you'll likely get a longer-lasting paint job."
If a day starts off mild, but turns very hot, try to avoid painting in direct sunshine, since sunlit surfaces can be 10 to 20 degrees hotter than the air temperature. Work your way around the house so that you are always painting in the shade. As a bonus, you'll be more comfortable!
When painting, pick a day that isn't too windy. Like the heat of the sun, wind can cause latex paint to dry too quickly and prevent optimal paint film formation. Plus, wind can stir up dust and other contaminants that can imbed in the paint to create an inviting surface for mildew, which feeds on such matter.
You should also try to steer clear of "weather events" that could affect the paint, waiting for another day if it has rained within the last 24 hours, or postponing the job if several days of rain are expected right after you finish painting.
Of course, it's important to properly prepare the surface before doing any exterior painting. That includes applying a coat of primer to any new surface that has never been painted, or spot-priming previously painted surfaces where the paint is worn away.
To extend the life of your paint job, Zimmer recommends that you apply the very highest quality 100% acrylic latex paint, which is especially durable, flexible and colorfast. Top quality paint often lasts 10 years or more, compared to about four years for ordinary paint, saving you time, work, and money in the long run. For the longest-lasting paint job, always apply at least two coats -- either a coat of primer or a coat of paint, or two coats of house paint.
Once you've finished your exterior painting, you can turn your attention to the other things on your to-do list. What's more, you'll have peace of mind knowing that you've done right by your biggest investment -- your home.
Via - (www.marketwatch.com)
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Do I Need to Use Paint Primer?
Paint colors, dyes and compositions are getting better all the time. Effects that would have been unthinkable just a generation ago are becoming easier than ever to achieve, from special matte finishes that resemble suede to effortless crackle glazes that make faux effects a cinch. One thing paint cannot do terribly well on its own, however, is bond to every possible surface without a little help. This is where paint primer comes in. If you have come online in search of vetted and reliable info on which primer to use and when, the following survey may be of some use.
The basic rule of thumb for paint primer is that it is necessary whenever you cannot create a totally flat surface for painting. Surfaces with cracks, holes or depressions that aren’t properly sealed could greatly reduce the paint’s ability to set effectively, so inherently porous substrates such as wood, drywall and concrete tend to come with primer recommendations attached. The natural holes in such materials can create an uneven surface for painting. But each of these materials requires somewhat different care, and it pays to understand what distinguishes one from the next.
Wood is the most common surface for paint primers, a fact that is hardly surprising considering its organic nature. The reason you always want to prime wood before painting is twofold – to protect the paint, and to protect the wood. A number of modern paints dry into proper color and hardness via evaporation, meaning they require the water to find its way into the atmosphere. The problem is that wood is a notoriously thirsty substance, and it is easy for water to get absorbed into the grain itself. Often the paint will begin to pucker and peels if the wood isn’t dry, making it necessary to scrape and start over. Paint primer creates a watertight seals between the two and ensures the paint has a smooth and adhesive surface with which to bond.
A second reason you always want to prime a wood surface is because the same absorption can quickly undo your attempts at an even coat. Lighter paint colors especially will often reveal the telltale whorls of wood grain even after several passes, requiring you to paint over and over for a truly solid hue. Although you could indeed take the hours necessary to paint repeatedly, often you can achieve the same effect with a few fast coats of primer first. The advantage extends well beyond mere convenience – primer tends to cost far less than paint, easing your financial burden in the process.
The wood itself can be injured without a primer in place. Although a negligible amount of water is absorbed during drying, considerably greater amounts may leech into the grain if that painted surface is exposed to the elements. Without a primer in place, it’s not unusual for repeated thunderstorms to take their toll, creating devastating conditions for mold, mildew and warping. Although many people consider outdoor paints to be waterproof, often they are anything but – their hardy nature derives from their ability to absorb rainwater with ease.
Of course, paint primer is recommended for a variety of other materials as well. In concrete and drywall, for instance, you simply want to seal the surface and create a solid bond without having to worry about similar problems with drying and moisture. For metals – especially those prone to rust –http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif a paint primer can protect the surface itself ahttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifnd keep moisture locked out. Plastics too can benefit from a coat of paint primer, particularly if they are porous in nature or you are putting a light color over a darker one. Finally you may need primer to marry two different paint types together, as when you apply latex over oil paint.
One thing primers are decidedly not for is hiding blemishes or “sealing in” mold and mildew. If you are working with a material that may have absorbed or produced an organic population such as this, it is essential to clean thoroughly before you paint. Dry everything for several hours and wait to see if the problem recurs. It is better to discard a rotted plank than to use primer to delay the inevitable!
Via - (www.homeimprovement.superpages.com)
Paint colors, dyes and compositions are getting better all the time. Effects that would have been unthinkable just a generation ago are becoming easier than ever to achieve, from special matte finishes that resemble suede to effortless crackle glazes that make faux effects a cinch. One thing paint cannot do terribly well on its own, however, is bond to every possible surface without a little help. This is where paint primer comes in. If you have come online in search of vetted and reliable info on which primer to use and when, the following survey may be of some use.
The basic rule of thumb for paint primer is that it is necessary whenever you cannot create a totally flat surface for painting. Surfaces with cracks, holes or depressions that aren’t properly sealed could greatly reduce the paint’s ability to set effectively, so inherently porous substrates such as wood, drywall and concrete tend to come with primer recommendations attached. The natural holes in such materials can create an uneven surface for painting. But each of these materials requires somewhat different care, and it pays to understand what distinguishes one from the next.
Wood is the most common surface for paint primers, a fact that is hardly surprising considering its organic nature. The reason you always want to prime wood before painting is twofold – to protect the paint, and to protect the wood. A number of modern paints dry into proper color and hardness via evaporation, meaning they require the water to find its way into the atmosphere. The problem is that wood is a notoriously thirsty substance, and it is easy for water to get absorbed into the grain itself. Often the paint will begin to pucker and peels if the wood isn’t dry, making it necessary to scrape and start over. Paint primer creates a watertight seals between the two and ensures the paint has a smooth and adhesive surface with which to bond.
A second reason you always want to prime a wood surface is because the same absorption can quickly undo your attempts at an even coat. Lighter paint colors especially will often reveal the telltale whorls of wood grain even after several passes, requiring you to paint over and over for a truly solid hue. Although you could indeed take the hours necessary to paint repeatedly, often you can achieve the same effect with a few fast coats of primer first. The advantage extends well beyond mere convenience – primer tends to cost far less than paint, easing your financial burden in the process.
The wood itself can be injured without a primer in place. Although a negligible amount of water is absorbed during drying, considerably greater amounts may leech into the grain if that painted surface is exposed to the elements. Without a primer in place, it’s not unusual for repeated thunderstorms to take their toll, creating devastating conditions for mold, mildew and warping. Although many people consider outdoor paints to be waterproof, often they are anything but – their hardy nature derives from their ability to absorb rainwater with ease.
Of course, paint primer is recommended for a variety of other materials as well. In concrete and drywall, for instance, you simply want to seal the surface and create a solid bond without having to worry about similar problems with drying and moisture. For metals – especially those prone to rust –http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif a paint primer can protect the surface itself ahttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifnd keep moisture locked out. Plastics too can benefit from a coat of paint primer, particularly if they are porous in nature or you are putting a light color over a darker one. Finally you may need primer to marry two different paint types together, as when you apply latex over oil paint.
One thing primers are decidedly not for is hiding blemishes or “sealing in” mold and mildew. If you are working with a material that may have absorbed or produced an organic population such as this, it is essential to clean thoroughly before you paint. Dry everything for several hours and wait to see if the problem recurs. It is better to discard a rotted plank than to use primer to delay the inevitable!
Via - (www.homeimprovement.superpages.com)
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