Villages hidden in Mumbai

Once an indelible part of Mumbai’s landscape, many gaothans are now struggling to exist in a city that is aiming for the skies. We do a realty check at four prominent gaothans.

Khotachiwadi: The cosmopolitan gaothan
Located in the commercial heart of Girgaum is the charming little village of Khotachiwadi, which has so far managed to resist invasion by Mumbai’s mind-boggling traffic. Declared a Grade III heritage precinct in 1995, Khotachiwadi is a web of narrow alleys lined by century-old bungalows with trellised balconies, open porches, curling staircases, and sloping tiled roofs.

Andheri Gaothan: Dying a slow death
Just a few feet from Andheri railway station is a narrow, dingy lane that leads to the Andheri gaothan. But those hoping to find ancient cottages and Portuguese-style bungalows here are in for a rude shock. Pale yellow Slum Rehabilitation Authority (SRA) buildings dot the area. If you look harder, you will find a few decrepit cottages made of stone and wood with thatched bamboo roofs. The area once boasted of as many as 50 magnificent cottages, but the number has come down to a mere 15, all thanks to rampant illegal construction.

Chuim Village: Where life comes to a standstill
Nestled cosily in Bandra’s belly is the quaint Chuim village with its matrix of wooden cottages and two-storey structures. The old bungalows still look robust and unique with their wooden frameworks, circular staircases, iron-grilled windows, and attics. Pot-bellied senior citizens relax in their verandahs watching life move by while the womenfolk break into small discussions with verve in the narrow by-lanes. People here continue to live their laidback lives, completely oblivious to the hustle and bustle of Mumbai.

Chembur Gaothan: Away from the bustle
Situated a short distance away from the railway station is Chembur gaothan. Another laidback gaothan within the maximum city, the place has a peculiar history of its own. At present, there are 150 structures, mainly old Portuguese-style cottages, in the gaothan. While most of the cottages are well-maintained, some appear to be just getting by. Lush green tress surround most of the bungalows. Big wooden windows, thatched roofs, and open verandahs add to the beauty of this gaothan.

(View slideshow via DNA)